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Cleaning Tips and Articles

16/06/07

How to clean Hand Lotion
Clean Mascara
Clean  Hair Oil
Clean  Hair Spray
Clean Ice Cream
Clean Ink (Permanent)
Clean Ink (Ball-point)
Clean Ink (Fountain pen)
Clean Ink (Felt tip)
Clean Ketchup
Clean Lard
Clean Linseed Oil
Clean Machine Oil
Clean Margarine
Clean Mayonnaise
Clean Milk
Clean Nail Varnish
Clean Paint (Latex)
Clean Mixed Drinks
Clean Rust
Clean Salad Dressing
Clean Shoe Polish (Liquid)
Clean Soft Drinks
Clean Soil
Clean Soot
Clean Soya Sauce
Clean Starch
Clean Tea
Clean Tooth Paste
Clean Urine (Dry)
Clean Urine (Wet)
Clean Vomit Wax (Candle)
Clean Wax Paste
Clean Wine
Clean White Glue

06/06/2007

Why to use a cleaning company??

Fast Cleaners- clean properties and happy clients

Fast Cleaners Limited was established in 2001 and has become the largest cleaning company in London. Our clients’ satisfactions and the quality of our services are the main reason for our growth and fast development. We proud ourselves for providing the fastest and best service anyone could ever imagine- with our highly trained staff, professional customer service, responsibility and accuracy. Our professional system helps us maintain and regulate all cleaning services at a time and we are just a telephone call away from our clients who can be in touch with us 7 days a week.

How we vet our cleaners and who works for us

Most of our cleaners come from Eastern Europe- Poland, Lithuania, Latvia, Estonia, Bulgaria, Turkey, Czech Republic etc.

First of all we check carefully all relevant paperwork and make sure every new cleaner has the legal right to live and work in UK. Our company policy requires details of specific cleaners’ documentation, proof of address and tax registration to be kept and stored safely for any future reference. Before starting work with us they are being trained and tested for the particular service they will provide for our clients. E.g. if the cleaner will be providing domestic cleaning she will be trained for the following- vacuum cleaning, dusting, polishing, ironing, scrubbing, cleaning materials and specific surfaces, health and safety, customer relations, time-keeping, key-storing, rights and obligations etc. All our cleaners are insured against damages in clients’ properties

SERVICES

Our customers choose from a wide range of services accordingly to their needs:

Booking a cleaner

Whether you have a question regarding our services or would like to book a cleaner, you can do so either using our website or over the phone. It is fast and easy. Any additional information or quotation will be provided from our professional and kind customer service. We work online 7 days a week and we would always be happy to be of any help- even though just contacting your cleaner with specific requirements on your behalf. If you book a cleaner on regular basis, our professional cleaner search system will help us send you one of our cleaners who answers your criteria best, lives locally and you have the right to choose whether to have meeting with her in advance or if she should start working for you immediately.

Why people prefer using our service:

Remember:We can only help if you contact us directly.

Cleaning Tips

Miscellaneous Cleaning Tips

Ring around the collar
Dirty neck rings around shirt or blouse collars can be removed by putting shampoo on them. Rub the shampoo in like you were washing your hair. Shampoo is specifically made to remove body oils. A cheap bottle of shampoo kept by the washing machine is handy for all kinds of stains in clothing. Don't forget this trick when you are traveling.
SOURCE: www.allabouthome.com

Cleaning Scuff Marks

Use 3 tbsp. Of TSP (trisodium phosphate) to a gallon of water to clean scuff marks or crayon marks off walls. TSP can be found in the paint department of a hardware store. Wear gloves and do not use on semi-gloss or gloss paint or wood surfaces.
SOURCE: www.allabouthome.com

Removing Blood from Furniture

Use hydrogen peroxide to remove blood from clothing or furniture. Rub gently.
SOURCE: www.allabouthome.com

Dusting Tip

Use paint brushes to dust cracks and hard to reach places in telephones, stereos, etc.
SOURCE: www.allabouthome.com

Make a Schedule

Set aside a regular short period of time each week for the family to straighten up the house. It teaches good habits to the kids and gives the family a project to do together. Everyone will feel better when the job is done, and might just look forward to the day when they know things are going to be neat and organized.
SOURCE: www.allabouthome.com

Listen to Books On Tape to Help You Clean

Having trouble finding time to read these days? You can rent great books on tape from the library to listen to while you're cleaning and doing chores. It helps to pass the time, keeps you working a little longer and lets you catch up on those mysteries you've been wanting to read. SOURCE: www.allabouthome.com

Removing Candle Wax from Walls

Candle wax can be removed from walls or other surfaces with an iron and facial tissue. Set the tissue over the wax and gently iron. When the wax seeps through or the tissue begins to brown, apply a new tissue. SOURCE: www.allabouthome.com

Cleaning Chrome

Club soda or seltzer water will clean chrome. SOURCE: www.allabouthome.com

Removing Blood Stains

Corn starch can remove blood stains. Rinse the stain in cold water, then rub in moistened cornstarch. Place the item in the sun. SOURCE: www.allabouthome.com

How to clean beer

Beer stains are fairly easy to remove.  If the stain is still wet, blot up as much as you can with a clean white cloth or paper towels.  Never rub a stain.  Mix a teaspoon of a good dishwashing detergent, such as Dawn, with a cup of warm water. Spoon some of this detergent mixture onto the stain, and allow to stand for 5 minutes.  Rinse the stain with a little warm water, and carefully blot dry.  If the stain is stubborn, mix one part of white vinegar to two parts water, and repeat the previous steps.  If the stain is on clothing, always rinse the stain in cool running water from the back of the stain, and treat the stain as you would carpet.  Vinegar will bleach clothing, so be sure to rinse right away, and wash according to care label instructions. Remember, the dark beers such as Guinness Lager will cause the worst stain due to its dark coloring.

1. Mix one teaspoon of a mild ph balanced detergent (a mild non alkaline non bleaching detergent) with a cup of lukewarm water
2. Blot
3. Mix one third cup of white household vinegar with two thirds cup of water
4. Blot
5. Sponge with clean water
6. Blot

Note: Always test an inconspicuous area for colorfastness, etc. before treating the exposed area. Also note that certain stains are permanent.
Source http://www.doityourself.com

How to clean carpet

If You Plan to Shampoo Your Carpet, First Try Pre-Cleaning: Sweep the carpet, which will make the nap stand up and loosen the imbedded dirt. Next vacuum. With this work alone, the rug should show a noticeable improvement, so much in fact that you may decide to delay shampooing.
To Neutralize Odors: Use Borax and cornmeal. Sprinkle the carpet with a mixture of 1 cup Borax and 2 cups cornmeal. Let this mixture stand for an hour before vacuuming.
Carpet Freshener: Combine 3/4 cup baking soda, 2 tbs. corn starch, and 1/4 cup perfumed talcum powder. Sprinkle on dry carpet, let stand 5 to 15 minutes, then vacuum.
Stain Removal: Clean up spills as fast as you can. Blot or scrape up as much of the spill as possible, blotting from the outside toward the center.
Dents and Depressions (from furniture or heavy objects): Shift the location of furniture from time to time. Brush the dented area, or use a grooming tool to loosen and stand-up the mashed tufts. Using a steam iron, steam the dented area lightly and brush up the tufts with your fingertips. Do not let iron touch the carpet. Hold the iron 2-3 inches above the carpet. For carpets containing acrylic or mod-acrylic, use the warm setting on a hair dryer, as steam may melt the fibers. To avoid further crushing, use casters under furniture legs.

Source :This article has been contributed in part by Michigan State University Extension.

How to clean Sand Blast

Dry sandblast cleaning is a relatively new method of cleaning newly built masonry, although the system has been used for many years in masonry restoration work.
Many architect/engineers prefer sandblast cleaning over conventional wet (acid) cleaning because of possible adverse acid reactions with certain types of brick. Other designers are reluctant to permit sandblast cleaning from fear the blasting will erode the face of the brick and mortar joints.
Sandblast operators can be compared with other construction tradesmen: some are artisans and others are incompetent. However, with a qualified operator, proper specifications and good job inspection, sandblast cleaning is as good as any other system and is sometimes superior in many ways.
Basically, sandblast cleaning involves the following equipment: Portable air compressor, blasting tank, blasting nozzle, operators' protective clothing and hood.
Air pressure delivered by compressor to blasting tank may range from 40 lbs. to 100 lbs. per square inch. Blasting tank is charged with the specified abrasive material and pressurized to force the mixture of abrasive material and air into blasting hose and to nozzle.
Blasting pattern is determined by nozzle size, type and air pressure. Speed of cleaning is determined by type of abrasive used, nozzle size, type, air pressure, nozzle-to-wall distance and of course, condition of surface to be cleaned.
Abrasive material used in brick cleaning is usually sand, quartz, or granite and must be clean and finely graded.
Sandblast cleaning material should conform to one of two particle size graduations outlined in the specifications below.
Type "A" gradation is to be used when the masonry is very lightly soiled or when only a very light or fine texturing of the brickwork is permitted.
Type "B" gradation is used for cleaning heavy mortar stains from brickwork and where medium texturing of the masonry is permitted.
Sandblast cleaning may be used for cleaning all hard burned, non-glazed, smooth or textured brick. Included in this category are reds, buffs, whites, grays, chocolates, etc.
Lightly sanded, coated, slurry, or sandbox brick should not be cleaned by sandblasting, unless cleaning cannot be accomplished by any other method, as the brick face can be permanently damaged.
Handmade or reclaimed brick may also be permanently disfigured by sandblasting.
As a further precaution, approval of the brick manufacturer must be obtained before permitting sandblast cleaning.
The following procedure is recommended for Sandblast Cleaning:

1. Wait for mortar to harden. Brickwork should be completely dry and at least seven days old, preferably 14 days.
2. Remove all large mortar particles with hand tools before blasting. Use wooden paddle, the rough edge of a brick, or metal scrape hoe. Chisels may be used if necessary to remove hardened mortar or concrete. This "pre-cleaning" is a very important part of sandblast cleaning. Sandblast operator would irreparably damage wall if large droppings are left for him to remove by blasting.
3. Provide adequate protection for all non-masonry surfaces adjacent to work areas, Use plastic sheeting and duct tape to protect windows, doors, etc. If possible, painting, caulking, etc. should be done after sandblast operation is completed.
4. When all surfaces are prepared and protected, the operator can begin a first test cleaning.

Operator should clean a small area with the nozzle first close to wall, and then at varying distances from the wall, trying to select a working distance that will give the best cleaning job with the least damage to brick and mortar work.
Job superintendent and architectural inspector should be present at this time to confirm acceptable practice. Approved areas should be marked and identified as acceptable standard for the entire job.
Specifications for Sandblast Cleaning
Scope
This section includes cleaning of newly constructed clay masonry with dry abrasive material forced by compressed air from tank through hose and nozzle.
Material
Cleaning material must be dust-free and abrasive. Hardness should be approximately 6 on Mohs' Scale. Material size shall conform to one of the two categories listed below according to acceptable finish of masonry surface.
Type "A" (Fine Texturing)
Typical Screen Analysis

U.S. Sieve Size	Percent Passing
30 Mesh	98-100
40 Mesh	80-85
50 Mesh	50-60
100 Mesh	5-20
140 Mesh	0-10

The following material is acceptable for "fine texture" sandblasting: Blast Sand Size No. 120 furnished by KMG Minerals, Inc., Kings Mountain, NC.
Type "B" (Medium texturing) For concrete work and extremely difficult masonry cleaning jobs.

Typical Screen Analysis

U.S. Sieve Size	Percent Passing
16 Mesh	87-100
18 Mesh	75-95
30 Mesh	25-50
40 Mesh	0-15
50 Mesh	0-10

The following material is acceptable for "medium texturing" sandblasting: Blast Sand No. 55 furnished by KMG Minerals, Inc., Kings Mountain, NC. Local materials may be used when dried and screened to meet required size and hardness and when determined to be free of grease or other impurities.
Equipment
Air compressor must be capable of producing pressure between 60 pounds and 100 pounds per square inch at the machine and should have a minimum air flow capacity of 125 cu. ft. per minute.
Nozzle inside orifice or bore size may vary from 3/16" diameter to 5/16" diameter.
Sandblast machine (or tank) must be equipped with controls to regulate flow of abrasive materials to nozzle, and shall be capable of supplying sand at a minimum rate of 300 pounds per hour.
Operator must wear O.S.H.A.- approved hood and protective clothing.
Workmanship

1. Brickwork must be dry and at least seven days old, preferably 14 days.
2. Before blasting, all large mortar particles must be removed with hand tools. Use wooden paddles, metal scrape hoes or chisels if necessary to remove hardened mortar.
3. Provide adequate protection for all non-masonry surfaces adjacent to work area. Use plastic sheeting and duct tape to protect windows, doors, etc.
4. Sandblast operation may begin if representatives of architect and/or prime contractor are present to inspect trial cleaning areas. Operators must test clean several areas, with nozzle trained at varying distances from wall, finally select-ing working distance that affords best cleaning job with least damage to brick and joints. Test areas approved by representative of architect and/or prime contractor must be marked and identified as acceptable standard for entire job.
5. All brick and mortar joint areas considered by the architect to be severely damaged by the cleaning operation must be replaced at the expense of the cleaning contractor.
6. If directed by the architect or engineer all brickwork cleaned by sandblasting shall be waterproofed with an approved clear coating as designated by architect or engineer.
   Source :Courtesy of GoBrick.com

How to manage with bleach

Bleaches can oxidize and remove stains from surfaces and fabrics. Bleaches may also be used to lighten stains in wood as well as remove the color naturally in woods such as mahogany.

• Caution: Rinse bleach thoroughly promptly to prevent fading.

Mild Bleaches - Sodium Perborate (an ingredient in commercial all purpose bleaches) and Hydrogen Peroxide. A solution will help lighten stains on surfaces such as plastic laminate, etc.

• Caution: Rinse thoroughly; follow label directions.

Strong Bleaches - Chlorine Bleach (Sodium hypochlorite). Removes stains. Disinfects toilet bowls, trash cans, other surfaces.

• Caution: May bleach dark-colored surfaces; can dull porcelain enamel finish of sinks and tubs; darken aluminum; may be used with detergents. NEVER mix with ammonia or other cleaners. FUMES ARE TOXIC. When removing stains, leave on surface only a brief time, and rinse off immediately.

Wood Bleaches  - Oxalic Acid, 2 part component wood bleaches from Albino® and Kleen-Strip ® . Removes color and stain from wood. Opens pores of wood to help accept new stain.

• Caution: requires neutralization, very dangerous to work with, always wear hand and eve protection. Read label instructions carefully.
• Source: This article has been contributed in part by : Michigan State University Extension

04/08/2007

1.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/howtomopaflo_swlx.htm
How to mop a floor
Have you been living in an apartment for six months and never cleaned the floor? Do your feet stick to the floor when you walk around barefooted? Is your floor now a darker shade than it was originally? You need to mop your floor! Sweeping and vacuuming will do for awhile, but soap and water is required to get the real dirt off your floor.
What supplies do you need to mop a floor? The basic requirements are a mop, water, some type of cleaning solution, and a bucket. You can begin with very simple, inexpensive equipment or you can purchase more elaborate and thus more expensive supplies. If you have a very small area to mop and don’t mind getting down on your hands and knees, you can even use a simple sponge to mop your floor.
There are many different types of mops and they come in different types of materials. Probably the most familiar is the cotton string mop with a wooden handle. This traditional mop is still used by many households and by janitorial services. It is very good for cleaning large areas, since the head covers a larger area than many other types of mops; however, many people do not know what to do with this type of mop when they’re finished mopping. It does remain drippy for quite awhile even if properly wrung out, and can become smelly if not promptly dried. If you have a large area to mop and have a place to properly dry a wet mop, this would be a good choice for you.
Other types of mops include the cloth mop, similar to the string mop, but with wider strips made of thin fabric or durable paper, and the sponge mop. Sponge mops usually have rectangular-shaped sponges, or rounded sponge rollers, and the handles often have attachments designed to wring water from the mops. More recent additions to mopping are rectangular-based mops to which you add wet disposable pads that are already treated with cleaning solutions, and similar mops with disposable bottles for cleaning solution and spray mechanisms in their handles; with these mops you use dry pads and spray the solution on the floor. There are also rectangular-based mops with terry cloth pads that you use for wood laminate floors; a special cleaning solution is used with these mops.
What types of floors can you mop? Obviously, carpet of any kind is not a good choice for mopping. Some of the wood laminates are also not designed to be mopped with a wet mop because the seams could buckle. Any type of vinyl flooring, tile, wood, polished concrete, or other hard flooring can usually be mopped. If you have new flooring put down, be sure to check the manufacturer’s recommendations for cleaning; special mops are recommended for some new types of flooring.
What supplies will you need to begin mopping an average floor? You will first need to choose a mop. If you have a small area to mop, an inexpensive mop from a discount store will probably work fine. You will also need a cleanser. Do not use liquid dishwashing soap, laundry detergent, or dishwasher powder. These will produce a lot of bubbles and will leave your floors sticky unless you do a lot of rinsing. Get an all-purpose cleanser in the household cleaning products section of a discount store or grocery store, or get a product that is especially for mopping. Some products have antibacterial or disinfecting properties and most are scented, so find one that is right for you. You will next need to get a bucket; you can get a cheap plastic bucket or you can get a two-section bucket with wheels if you want to spend more. In a pinch, you can even use your sink, tub or other water-holding container you might have around the house.
The first thing you want to do before mopping is to sweep or vacuum the floors that you plan to mop. This will remove larger particles of dirt and debris and will make it much easier to mop. If you do not do this before mopping, your mop water will become dirty very quickly and the mop may not pick up some of the larger pieces on your floor. Pick up things on the floor that you don’t want to get wet, and move objects that would hinder your mopping. For instance, if you want to clean around the baseboards, move your furniture that is pushed against the wall out some so this will be possible.
To begin mopping with a string, fabric or sponge mop, first fill the bucket, or whatever container you’ve decided to use, with water. Two-section units are superior in that one section holds clean water and one is used to wring out the dirty water from the mop. If you are using a plain bucket, you will need to change the water frequently if your floor is very dirty, or you could use two buckets, one for clean water and one for the dirty water.
Check the label on the cleanser you have selected and pour the recommended amount into your bucket; this is usually a small amount such as ¼ cup. If you are using a shine product especially for mopping, you will squirt it directly on the floor instead of pouring it in the bucket. Dip your mop into the bucket and then wring out the excess water. With a cotton string mop or fabric mop, you will have to do this with your hands if you don’t have one with a wringing attachment. With a sponge mop, you can pull the wringing lever and squeeze the sponge to remove excess water.
Start mopping around the edges of the room farthest from you. Make sure you know where you want to be when you’re finished mopping so you don’t mop yourself into a corner and have to step on the wet floor. (If this becomes necessary, you can just mop over your footprints.) Continue mopping until your mop is dirty or dry, then dip it into the water and swish it around to rinse. If you are using two buckets or a two-section bucket, wring the dirty mop into one section and rewet it in the other section.
Continue mopping until you have finished a room, and then repeat the process with each additional room you have to mop. For tough stains on your floor you may have to rub the mop over the spot several times, or use a scrubber of some type. If you have a lot of visible patches of grime, you may want to spray these with cleanser before you start mopping. Some sponge mops have a small scrubber on the end, so you can just turn the mop a bit to scrub dirty spots. You can also purchase separate scrubbers on long handles or smaller ones that fit over your hand.
If your floor was very dirty and you had to use a lot of cleanser for spots, you may have to rinse your floor so it won’t feel sticky when it dries. To do this, rinse your mop in clean water until all the cleanser is rinsed out, then re mop, using only water. Make sure you wring the mop and rinse it frequently as you mop up the excess cleanser off the floor. The shine-type products do not have to be rinsed from your floor.
If you are in a hurry for your floors to be dry, you can dry them with towels, but ordinarily, normal air drying will work fine. If you have fans, turn them on to help with drying. Mopping on a sunny day is best for rapid drying; if you mop on a humid or rainy day it will take longer for your floors to dry.
If you want to mop with a rectangular-shaped mop with disposable pads, just follow the directions on its packaging. These mops will not make your floor as wet as cotton or sponge mops and are convenient to use when you need to touch-up a small area, such as a spill. If you have a large, dirty area to mop, you will need to have several pads so make sure you have a refill box in reserve when you begin. Refill bottles are also available for the spray mops. This type of mop is good to keep around even if you have a more traditional type of mop since it’s very convenient and easy to use.
Frequent mopping will make your floors cleaner and more attractive. Using a disinfectant or antibacterial cleanser can make your floors more sanitary and is important if you have small children toddling around. Learning to mop is an important part of housecleaning, but is very simple if you have the right supplies. Even though some would consider mopping an unpleasant task, the reward of having a sparkling floor makes it a worthwhile endeavor.
2.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/homeplumbingcl_swoy.htm
How to clean a shower head
Shower heads can become clogged by mineral deposits left by hard water. When this happens, the shower head often spits water out in different directions instead of spraying. If the shower head is severely clogged, you might only get a dribble of water. If this is the case with your shower head, it might be time to clean it.
To begin cleaning your shower head, you first must remove the head. Before you start using the pliers to loosen the head, wrap the chrome parts in a towel or something of that nature. Wrapping the parts in a towel will keep the pliers from scratching the chrome.
In order to clean the shower head once it has been removed, heat vinegar (do not boil) and pour it into a container. Place the shower head in the vinegar and let it soak for 10 to 12 hours. Check the holes on the shower head. If you see that some of the holes are still clogged, use a very thin wire and poke each hole before rinsing. Once you have cleared all of the holes, rinse the shower head vigorously with hot water. For those stubborn mineral deposits, try scrubbing the shower head with a small brush such as a toothbrush.
Gold or brass finished shower heads are coated to protect them from oxidation. If you use anything abrasive, you can ruin the finish on your fixture. To clean these shower heads, aim the shower arm down and rotate the head so the holes face the ceiling. Spray a commercial cleaner or vinegar on the shower head. You will need to let this stand for 15 minutes in order to remove the mineral deposits. Repeat this step if the shower head did not come completely clean. Do not let your fixture soak for more than 30 minutes at a time. If you soak the shower head any longer, the finish on your fixture could be damaged.
If you do not want to take your shower head apart to clean it, you can pour two to three inches of vinegar into a small sandwich bag. You then place the bag over the shower head, tape it in place, and let it soak overnight. Be sure and check the holes to make sure that all are clear from mineral deposits.
There are commercial cleaning products on the market that are also very effective at cleaning the mineral deposits from your shower head. However, these can be quite costly. Vinegar is very cost effective and gets the job done. White vinegar is probably your best choice, but any vinegar will work just as well.
There is one last thing to look for when cleaning your shower head. Look at the parts of the shower head after you have taken them apart. If you notice that the parts are worn looking, it might be time to replace them.
As you can see, cleaning a shower head is not difficult. It does not require expensive equipment or a deep knowledge of plumbing. It can be accomplished while you are sleeping. When you wake up, you have a clean shower head and great water flow for your morning shower.
3.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/howtomakehome_sxsg.htm
How to make your home healthier
There's something about a clean, fresh home environment that makes us feel comfortable and healthy. The problem is that it is difficult to sanitize our living quarters adequately enough to stamp out all the billions of germs that live there alongside us.
Microbes, or bacteria, have been on this planet as long as humans have. Invisible to the naked eye, these small life forms have become quite crafty in creeping into the well-kept household. But if you're serious about keeping your house or apartment healthy and safe from our insidious enemy, the following suggestions might prove useful.
1. Buy antibacterial soap. Kids like using the dispenser kind with a pump, so place one in each bathroom of your house. The liquid or gel is great for washing kids' toys, too, as long as you rinse them thoroughly afterward.
2. Wipe counters and cooking areas daily. In the bathroom keep paper towels or use a quick swipe of toilet tissue to keep the sink basin, tub, or shower free of visible grime. Wipe counters free of hair, make-up, drips, or spills to avoid bacterial build-up. In the kitchen, wipe the counter, stove, microwave, and refrigerator quickly after dinner, then place the scrub cloth in the laundry rather or use a paper towel. Consider using antibacterial soap or a non-toxic cleaning compound. Many people use bleach water, but check the container for a safe mixture of this substance.
3. Replace contaminated cleaning materials. Scrub cloths should be washed in hot (not warm or cold) laundry water after each use. Rinse the mop in hot water after scrubbing the floors, replacing the mop head after three months or so. Kitchen sponges can be washed clean after each use for about a month before discarding them. Continuing to use these materials over a longer period of time allows them to become a breeding ground for germs.
4. Protect personal hygiene items. Keep toothbrushes in a container or a drawer. Leaving them on the counter exposes them to the toilet germs that explode into the air after flushing, along with attracting dust and insects. Wash cloths and towels should be replaced after two or three uses. Unused cosmetics should be discarded after a year and replaced with new products. Soak hairbrushes and combs in hot water with shampoo.
5. Clean furnishings and floors regularly. Mop uncarpeted floors weekly and vacuum rugs twice weekly if possible. Wipe or vacuum furniture and draperies monthly. Plan a semi-annual thorough cleaning that lets you wipe down cupboards, closets, bookshelves, walls, garage, and basement, as well as other areas of your home that require routine maintenance.
6. Bathe indoor pets or have them professionally groomed each month. Routinely wash their bedding, food dishes, and grooming supplies.
7. Get rid of toxic chemicals, substances, or cleaners that you no longer need. Opt for environment-friendly products that you can buy or make yourself. Clean out the medicine cabinet to eliminate outdated medicines or prescriptions.
8. Air out your home frequently. Open windows with screens daily for a few minutes, at least, to let the dank air out and the fresh air in. (Supervise children around windows to be sure they don't push through the screens and fall out.) Even in the winter it is a good idea to crack the window a few inches for air flow. Consider a HEPA air filtering system that traps allergens and cleans the air in your home. Research shows that modern insulation materials inhibit good air exchange, so it should be done manually. Children who do not receive access to clean, healthy air but are forced to breathe household air contaminated by cigarette smoke, cooking by-products, toxic cleaners or strong fumes, and animal dander often develop allergies that may eventually lead to asthma.
9. Do laundry weekly. Clean clothes not only make us look and smell better, they keep us healthier, too. Let the kids help sort, wash, and fold clothes to keep laundry from becoming an overwhelming chore.
10. Store food and wash dishes promptly. Food left sitting out for two hours or more can become a harbor for air-borne bacteria. Put leftovers away immediately after eating. Put your dirty dishes in the dishwasher or stack them in the sink after rinsing. Dirty dishes attract insects, which in turn can leave waste that literally can make you sick.
Taking advantage of natural elements like air and water can go a long way in getting rid of unwanted germs. In a few easy steps you can make your home a healthy place for the family's comfort and enjoyment.
4.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/howdolaundrye_sxtt.htm
How to do family laundry more efficiently
Doing laundry is one of those repetitious chores that seldom seem to get or stay caught up. The multiple tasks associated with washing the family's clothes often get interrupted before the entire process can be concluded.
If you are having trouble getting the laundry done, here are a few tips for organizing the work to get it done on a timely basis.
1. Install a laundry chute in bedrooms or bathrooms. That way everyone can throw dirty clothing down the chute whenever needed and it will all end up together in the basement, where many people have laundry facilities.
2. If a laundry chute is impractical, set laundry hampers in bathrooms or bedrooms. If family members are prone to leaving used clothing lying on the floor, charge them a quarter for each item that doesn't make it into the hamper. Or simply leave that piece of clothing unwashed and when needed, your spouse or child will accept your terms for the next time you wash clothes.
3. On laundry day, tell each person to bring his or her hamper and the bathroom baskets as well to the laundry area. They should also be instructed to place all dirty clothes in the hampers, such as towels currently in use or things that may be laying on dressers or tables, etc.
4. In your laundry area tries to find space for a sorting and folding table. If not, use the tops of the washer and dryer or the floor. Sort soiled clothing by color:
-whites, such as underwear and socks
-pastels
-darks
(Some people include a "bights" pile.)
In addition, start a "delicate" pile for things that should be gently washed. These may include lightweight fabrics or hand washable items.
5. Using the appropriate temperature water, add the right amount of detergent. Don't overdo it as laundry soap can be harsh and may damage fabrics. When the washer begins to fill with sudsy water, add your first load, evenly distributing them around the agitator in the center.
6. Close the lid and do something else. Check your load or listen for the sound of the washer coming to a stop. Switch those items to the dryer and start your next load of laundry.
7. Go through each pile of clothes in the same way. When the first load come out of the dryer folds it immediately to prevent wrinkling and to save ironing time. Place in stacks for each family member and place in a well traveled area so they can pick them up on the way to their rooms and put them away promptly.
Alternatively, you may want to train kids from age twelve or so to handle their own laundry. Show them how to do it the first time or two, and supervise them the next few times, helping as needed. Soon they will be able to complete their own laundry, contributing to a sense of maturity and self-responsibility.
Laundry need not be an overwhelming and dreaded task. Sort the task much as you would the clothing and it will get done promptly.
5.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/contactpaperre_sxrm.htm
Removing contact paper from wood
If you have old wooden drawers or cabinets with contact paper in them and have tried to remove the old paper for a new style, or simply because it has become worn with time, then you are probably already aware that getting the old paper off is not an easy task. With a few tips and tricks, however, it can be made simple.
Begin by preparing a work surface for your object. If your drawer bottoms can be removed from the frame of the drawer, it is easier to work with the single piece of wood so that you can really get to the corners. Likewise with a cabinet shelf – if you can remove it, it will make your work immensely easier to handle. Once you have removed the drawer bottom or shelf, clear a large space on the kitchen table or other flat work surface. Be sure that the surface is clean and has been dusted so that you do not end up with any bits of debris or dust sticking to your wood. Cover the surface with newspaper or plain white butcher paper, if available.
Depending on what materials you have available and what you wish to use, you will need some or all of the following materials:
- A razor blade or utility knife
- A few cans of Coca-Cola
- Stiff brush or rough, lint-free cloth
- A hair dryer
- A spray bottle filled with plain water
There are a few easy methods for removing contact paper from these wooden surfaces. We will start with the cleanest: a hair dryer and a spray bottle of water. Though this is the cleanest method for removing contact paper, it is not always the best choice, as it will not remove all of the adhesive backing from the contact paper. However, if the wood has been treated, or if it is visible to the eye when it is placed back in the drawer/cabinet, then this may be the best choice.
Begin this method by heating the contact paper with the highest setting on the hair dryer. Start at a corner of the wood and spray the water onto the piece generously. Carefully peel while heating, and continue until the paper has been pulled back completely. Repeat with water and heat, using a stiff brush to clean the remaining adhesive and sticky residue from the surface of the wood. Allow drying completely without heat to avoid warping, and re-assemble or re-cover the piece.
Coca-Cola and other similar, highly acidic colas can work wonders on removing contact paper adhesive. You may want to use this method if you want to be sure that the entire adhesive is removed, and if you are not overly worried about staining the wood. Although the cola will be rinsed from the piece, there is the potential that the caramel coloring in the soda will soak into and stain the wood.
Using the cola method, we begin by scoring the contact paper generously with the razor or utility knife. Do not cut too deeply; all we need to do is to cut through the paper and into the adhesive. When you are finished scoring the paper, you should have a series of one-inch marks spaced about one-inch apart, covering the entire surface. Next, take your rough cloth (such as a shop towel) and soak it generously in the cola. Do not wring it out. If you do not have a rough cloth, a stiff brush will work. In the case of a brush, pour the cola directly onto the paper. Rub with the soaked cloth, or work the stiff brush over the scores in the paper. Be sure to use a motion that runs perpendicular to the scores in the paper, and it will begin to easily peel back from the wood. Repeat until all of the adhesive has been removed, and then clean thoroughly with plain water until the cola has been removed from the wood. Allow to dry before replacing the piece into the drawer or cabinet.
With just a little bit of thought and planning, even the most difficult tasks can be accomplished easily, including getting that old contact paper out of the way.
6.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/homehealthsafe_sxcj.htm
Household hazardous waste disposal
The average household is riddled with products that, while easily handled with safety within everyday use, can pose a drastic threat to the ecosystem should it be disposed of improperly. With care, a conscientious person can make a difference in the state of our environment and general health by properly disposing of hazardous wastes from the home through proper methods. Not only are a risk to the world at large, these products often legally mandated to a certain set of disposal regulations which, if not followed, could result in a fine or even incarceration.
Several products found in most homes are hazardous and require proper disposal. Paint, chemical cleaners, pesticides, and several automobile products including degreasers are all among the most often found hazardous products. In truth, anything that is toxic, reactive, flammable, or corrosive should be disposed of properly. The reality of a product's hazards can always, by law, be found on its label.
The easiest way to dispose of a product is simply to use it completely over time. This is not always possible, but when it is, this is a much more economic solution. Not only is there a boon to the environment by doing so, but also to the pocketbook. If, however, this is not an option, there are other ways to deal with a hazardous household good. Giving it away to someone else to use, be it an individual or a non-profit organization, is an excellent way to recycle these wastes, particularly in the case of cleaning supplies and paint.
There are some hazardous items that are easily able to be disposed of with ordinary refuse, such as common batteries. For others, there are alternatives granted by the EPA, should the disposal of these wastes be necessary. Some types of waste always have places to safely accommodate for their disposal, such as automobile fluids and batteries. Even without such sites, there are several guidelines which, if followed, allow for the disposal of hazardous wastes with normal household garbage. Provided there are no specific disposal guidelines on the label of a liquid product, it can be added to sawdust or clay cat litter until there is no standing liquid, resulting in a paste or solid which should then be sealed to ensure no leakage can occur. Typically, it is requested that this disposal be spread out into several collection dates with other household garbage over an extended period of time.
Baring this method, the majority of these items should be kept as they have been, following the directions on the label for safe storage. The only universally appropriate method of disposal is to wait for a community disposal date, usually held annually or biannually in most areas, and deliver the waste to a designated location where it can be properly handled. The dates in which an individual community may be holding such collections are always publicized in local periodicals and released as public service announcements. They can also be found in contacting the city offices.
Given the number of products that are hazardous to us and our environment, it is likely most wise to simply buy what is needed and no more. When the need arises, however, there are plenty of safe, legal options for disposal which require only a little planning and forethought. When in doubt, it is best to contact the local department of environmental protection with any questions related to specific circumstances.
7.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/cleanrefrigerat_sxgj.htm
How to clean out the refrigerator quickly
You know it's time to clean out the refrigerator when the odors inside reach you before opening the door. Or perhaps you pull the handle and last night's roast falls out. It may be that you peer in the freezer for several minutes, unable to locate the entree you had planned to thaw for tonight's dinner.
Whatever prompt you may receive, cleaning the refrigerator is one of the least favorite household chores for many people. If you want to get it over with as quickly as possible, try these tips:
1. Set aside a thirty-minute chunk of time when the kitchen will be deserted so no one will get in your way as you scurry between refrigerator and sink or trash can. Get your cleaning materials ready before you start. A sponge or soft cloth, mild soap or detergent, and a gentle mixture of bleach water (read the bottle for directions) should do it. Grab paper towels in case of a spill.
2. Clear the sink area so you can rinse and wash detachable refrigerator parts. Also clear a counter area or stove top near the icebox so you can temporarily set refrigerator containers there as you move things around.
3. Starting with the top rack, quickly sort each item to check its expiration date, size, fill level, and frequency of use. Larger items like gallon-size milk jugs typically should go in the back of the shelf so shorter items can be placed in front for easy viewing. If a milk jug is nearly empty and you can use that space, pour the residue into a cup and drink it or save it for the kids.
4. Remove all items from the top shelf and set on the nearby counter. Wipe the shelf clean with the soft cloth. Then re-wipe with the bleach water, rinsing it off after a moment or two. Do the sides and back of that area next, using the same steps.
5. Discard expired items or leftovers that are unlikely to be eaten. Replace usable items, largest in the back, smaller in the front.
6. Move to the middle shelf and repeat the process. You may need to place condiments in the door shelving or decide to freeze leftovers that are ready to spoil.
7. Do the bottom shelf next. Remove produce drawers and wash thoroughly in the sink. Wipe the exposed area beneath them and apply the bleach water, rinsing it afterward. Replace items in similar order as other shelves. Toss out produce that is turning moldy or wilting.
8. Clean the door shelves after removing condiments and smaller items. Wipe the doors inside and edging before replacing items, discarding dated or unused foods.
9. Closing the door, wipe down the outside of the refrigerator on all sides. Unplug it briefly and vacuum the coils if they are exposed or the back of the unit, if not. If moveable, pull it out and sweep or vacuum beneath.
10. Clear items off the top and wipe that, too. Rinse cloth and empty used water--voila! You're ready to enjoy fresh food from a fresh storage area.
In a matter of minutes you will be able to complete an unwelcome task that will free up more time to do things you enjoy.
8.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/cleanmarblegra_sxlr.htm
How to clean marble and granite tile
Marble is a beautiful stone that is popular in counter tops and flooring. Marble is an alkaline-based stone composed of calcite and calcium carbonate that contains swirls of veining that can absorb stains. It is vulnerable to scratches and dulling by common foot traffic. If using a commercial cleaner, read the ingredients carefully. Acids such as lemon juice and white vinegar can remove the polish from the marble floor or marble counter top if left over an extended period of time. "No-Streak" cleansers that contain high alkaline can dull or damage the finish of the tile. Marble should only be cleaned with neutral pH detergents. Sweep and/or vacuum the marble tile prior to proceeding to make sure it is clean of all surface dirt. Before trying any cleaning solution on your marble tiled floor or counter top, be sure and check an inconspicuous area to determine effectiveness and to make sure you are not going to dull the finish. If you experience a dulled finish to your test spot, the cleanser is too acidic and could etch the marble.
Granite is one of the most popular counter top stones due to its resistance to stain, scratches and cracks. The only thing that will scratch granite is a diamond or another piece of granite. Granite is an igneous rock formed from liquid magma with a chemical composition similar to that of lava. Granite is a very solid and non-porous rock. It carries a very dense grain and is the hardest of all building stones. It is impervious to stain and will carry a high gloss finish when polished. A neutral pH cleanser along with a semi-annual application of a non-yellowing paste wax is recommended for cleaning of granite tile.
To clean a rust stain from your marble or granite tile, you will need to make a paste of a commercial rust remover (CLR is one choice) and powdered whiting, which is available at your local hardware or paint store. Cover the rust stain with a thick coat of the paste. Cover the paste with plastic wrap sealed with masking tape to keep it damp. Let the poultice sit on the rust stain for 10 to 15 minutes, rinse with clean water, rub dry with a clean towel. Repeat if necessary
Organic Stains
Organic stains such as tea, coffee or tobacco can be removed from your marble or granite tile by soaking in a 20-percent solution of hydrogen peroxide. Using the same poultice method as the one used in rust removal make your paste with hydrogen peroxide and whiting. Let the covered paste sit on the stain for 24-48 hours before rinsing. If the peroxide is ineffective, substitute mild powdered detergent and begin the process again.
Scratches
As granite is the hardest building stone available, scratches are not something to worry about. You cannot scratch the surface of granite unless you use something like tungsten and diamond tools; however, marble is prone to scratches. To remove scratches from your marble tile, begin with coarse-grit sandpaper working up to about 320-grit sandpaper. Work the sandpaper back and forth with moderate pressure sprinkling with water to help reduce friction. After removing the scratches, smooth the surface with 400 to 600 grit sandpaper. Apply a mixture of rottenstone and water using a felt pad. After application, use a sponge and clean water to remove the rottenstone and water mixture. Polish the marble with a soft cloth.
Daily Maintenance
Marble: Use only warm water and mild detergent to clean your marble tiled floor. Wring out your mop completely to keep excess moisture from the marble. Completely rub the marble tile dry after cleaning as marble is prone to water spots. Remove your shoes to avoid grinding sand and dirt into the porous surface and damaging the surface of the tile. Wear socks or slippers to keep the oils from the bottom of your feet off the tile. The use of a good marble polish can freshen the marble and may help remove small scratches. The use of a commercial floor machine, polishing pad and polishing compound can restore the floor to a natural high polish. Do not use an acrylic or polyurethane finish as it will not allow the marble to breathe, will show scuff marks, peels and scratches easily. Use only a nylon brush to avoid scratching the marble.
Granite: A mixture of non-siding ammonia or a mild neutral powdered detergent and water are recommended for daily cleaning.
Note of caution: Both marble and granite tile are extremely slippery when cleaned and polished so extra precautions are necessary to eliminate the possibility of accidents.
9.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/evaporativecool_sxpl.htm
How to prevent bad smells
In order to keep a swamp cooler maintained properly, it’s best to know its parts and how it works. The cooler is basically a big box, with four vented, removable panels. Each panel holds a pad that absorbs moisture from a water line and a pump that resides near the bottom of the box. There is also a motor and a fan, which serves to push the air inside the box, which has been cooled as much as 20 degrees by the pads, into the house. This is the basic concept of evaporative cooling. It is a very cost-effective way to keep a home cool in low humidity climates, such as New Mexico, Arizona, Nevada and parts of southern California.
The first step to keeping evaporative cooled air fresh is to keep the panels clean. The water in the southwestern US tend to be very hard and full of minerals. This causes the panels on the cooler to become encrusted and plugged with calcium deposits as they are exposed to the constant moisture of the pads. At the beginning of the cooling season, clean each panel inside and out with a long-handled, stiff wire brush. These brushes can be purchased at any home improvement store and are often found amongst swamp cooler parts and accessories. Make sure each vent is completely clear of deposits, as this will allow for better air draw.
The next step is cooler pads. There are two basic types: straw pads and synthetic pads (often referred to as “green” pads). They can come pre-cut or in rolls. The rolled type is better because cooler panels can vary in size and rolled pads can be cut to an exact size to fit. Better-fitting pads will allow the cooler to work more efficiently. Straw pads are less expensive, but they have their drawbacks. They are more prone to mold and mildew and therefore odors, and must often be changed two to three times during the cooling season. Straw pads can also contribute to allergy symptoms in sensitive individuals. Green pads, although more costly, are a better option as they last through a whole season, do not promote mildew or odors and are hypoallergenic. One thing to note: if the cooler is turned off for maintenance or because it is not needed, the pads will dry out and will create an unpleasant odor once the cooler is operating again. This is temporary and will go away once the pads are completely moistened. Also, the pads should be removed at the end of the cooling season, or they will dry out and attach themselves firmly to the panels, making them very hard to remove the following year.
While the above-mentioned maintenance is the key, there are products on the market that can be added to the sump water at the bottom of the cooler to prevent bad odors. Some people even add ordinary fabric softener to combat odor, but this is not a good idea, as it tends to clog the pads and water pump, and can lead to a very strong, cloying fragrance in the home that is difficult to eradicate.
With a little time and basic maintenance, a swamp cooler will run smoothly and odor-free.
10.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/cleanleatherfu_syyd.htm
How to clean leather furniture
Leather furniture is a luxury that many people enjoy. Leather lasts 4 to 5 times longer than upholstered fabric which makes it the most durable, long lasting furniture covering available. It is not easy to burn or melt leather and it is extremely difficult to puncture. Leather is a natural material that breathes which makes it comfortable all year long. It is important that proper care is taken to maintain the beauty and luxury of your leather furniture.
Leather furniture really benefits from a good weekly dusting. The soft brush attachment on your vacuum cleaner makes a handy leather duster or just run a clean cotton cloth over the furniture. For general cleaning use a gentle, moisturizing soap and a soft cloth, being careful not to saturate the leather. It is not necessary to rinse the soap from the leather after cleaning, just buff it dry with a soft cloth.
Furniture in high traffic areas benefits from a good thorough cleaning at least once every season.  This helps remove body oils, perspiration and general soiling. Stay away from solvents not created specifically to clean leather to avoid irreparable damage. Use a soft cotton cloth dampened with good leather cleaner. Run the cloth all over the piece of furniture paying special attention to the skin contact areas like the arm rests and inside backs. Follow with a good leather conditioner made especially for finished leather furniture.
Stains:
Ink stains may be removed from leather with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol. Rub the swab over the ink stain and dry with a blow dryer. If this doesn’t completely remove the ink, apply a thick layer of non-oily, non-gel cuticle remover. Leave it on for several hours and wipe off with a damp cloth.
Dark stains from light colored leather can be removed with a paste of 1 part cream of tartar to 1 part lemon juice. Rub the paste onto the stain and leave it on for 10 to 15 minutes. Add another layer of the paste and work it into the first layer. Remove the paste with a damp sponge and moisturizing soap. Buff the leather dry with a soft cloth.
Grease stains can be simply wiped from the leather using a dry cloth. Do not apply water to the grease stain. The spot should dissipate in a short period of time.
Liquid spills should be cleaned from the leather immediately with a clean cloth or sponge. Liquid that is allowed to sit on the leather for an extended period of time will eventually be absorbed.
To protect your leather furniture and keep it from fading, drying out, and cracking, avoids placing it in direct sunlight. Keep your leather furniture at least 2 feet away from any heat source such as a radiator or fire place. To replenish the leather, mix 1 part white vinegar with 2 parts linseed oil. Shake well to mix and apply to the leather in circular motions, covering the entire surface. Let the mixture sit for about 10 minutes and then buff with a soft cloth. A second buffing may be necessary.
It is important to avoid the use of saddle soap, furniture polish oil, varnish, abrasive cleanser or ammonia water on your leather furniture. And always check for color changes in an inconspicuous part of the furniture before applying any product to the leather
11.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/cleanceramicfl_sygn.htm
Tips for cleaning ceramic tiles and grout
Ceramic tile are manufactured from refined clay and other materials. Ceramic tiles are normally glazed with a coating of glass to give them a high gloss. Grout is a porous sealant used to fill the spaces between the ceramic tiles that should be treated with a sealer to simplify maintenance and cleaning.
Ceramic floor tile cleaning tips
Daily maintenance of your glazed ceramic floor tiles can be as simple as using a damp mop and warm water. Mop it with a solution of mild detergent and water for heavier cleaning jobs. Rinse the tile thoroughly to remove any detergent residue. Unglazed tiles can be cleaned with a mildly abrasive scouring powder but glazed tiles may be scratched if cleaned with any abrasive cleanser.
If your ceramic floor tile is in the bathroom you may be dealing with a buildup of soap scum. Mix ½ c. packaged water softener with 2 tablespoons rottenstone and 1 cup of hot water. Sponge the solution onto the soap scum and it should come right off. If not, try a solution of 1-2 tablespoons of tri-sodium phosphate (TSP) mixed into 1 gallon of hot water. Rinse the tile thoroughly after cleaning.
A build-up of various stains may cause your ceramic floor tile to look dark. Cover the stain with a full strength liquid laundry detergent and let it soak on the stain for two to three hours. Sponge the detergent off with warm water. If this doesn’t completely remove the stain, scrub the stain with a scrub brush. Rinse thoroughly.
Mildew can be removed from ceramic tile with a solution of chlorine bleach and water. Use a soft bristled brush to agitate the bleach water solution into the grout joints. Rinse the tile thoroughly and treat it with a mildew retardant household spray to prevent further growth.
Chlorine bleach will also remove such stains as ink, blood, mustard, fruit juice and coffee. Apply a solution of bleach and water and let it stand on the stain for 5 to 10 minutes. Rinse with clean water. A solution of 10 percent sodium carbonate and water will remove grease from ceramic tile. Rust stains from unglazed ceramic floor tiles may be removed with a solution of 5 percent hydrochloric acid and water. Soak a paper towel with nail polish remover (acetone) and lay it on a nail polish spill. Let the soaked paper towel sit on the spill for a few minutes and then scrape off the softened polish. Steel wool can scour off a minor cigarette burn.
Felt pads on the feet of wooden table legs will help you avoid scratching the tile and will help to maintain the look and beauty of your ceramic floor. If you vacuum the ceramic tile, be careful of any metal or plastic attachments that could scratch the surface.
Grout cleaning tips
White grout can be cleaned with a solution of half hydrogen peroxide and half water. Put the mixture into a spray bottle and spray directly onto the grout. Let the solution sit on the grout for 15 minutes and then spray again. Avoid using this solution on colored grout as peroxide is bleach and will remove the color. Heavier grout stains may require a stronger concentration of straight peroxide applied to the stain. Cover the treated stain with plastic wrap to keep the peroxide from drying out too quickly. If the stain persists, try a mixture of peroxide and baking soda. This mixture will bubble greatly. Once the bubbling has subsided, apply it to the stain and let it sit for several minutes. Spray with more peroxide as it dries out.
Colored grout may be cleaned with shaving cream. Test an inconspicuous spot to make sure it doesn’t affect the color before applying to the entire surface. After removing the stains from the grout, re-apply a coat of sealer.
12.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/windowwashingt_syik.htm
Supply and tool comparison
Window washing is an unpopular but necessary chore. Finding the right supplies and tools for your needs can make this an easier and faster task. There are many window and glass cleaners available so it can be hard to choose when you to the store. Below is a comparison of supplies and tools for washing your windows to help you make a more informed decision.
The standard store bought ammonia based window cleaner is one option. This will clean your windows quite well without excessive wiping to remove dirt and smudges. However the ammonia produces a strong odor and studies have been done to suggest these odors are harmful to your lungs with prolonged use.
An alternative to ammonia based cleaners are vinegar based cleaning solutions. Vinegar is a great cleaning agent. It works especially well on any type of greasy build up such as kitchen windows or bathroom windows and mirrors where hairsprays are used. You can easily make your own vinegar cleaning solution. It is made from ingredients probably already in your kitchen and does not have a strong or harmful odor. Home made solutions have the added benefit of being less expensive than store bought cleaners. You will need a clean, average size spray bottle, vinegar, and alcohol. Place one-third cup of vinegar and one-third cup of alcohol in the spray bottle. Fill the remainder of the bottle with water and shake gently to mix. The downside to homemade cleaners is they have a tendency not to evaporate as quickly as store bought ones. It can take longer to wipe the window to a shine with a homemade cleaner. If this is a problem for you, add slightly more alcohol to your spray bottle. If you like the idea of using natural ingredients but do not want to bother with mixing your own there are vinegar based window cleaners on the market. They do not contain ammonia and clean quite well without excessive wiping to clean the window.
Also available are prepackaged window wipes. They are single use cloths saturated in window cleaning solution. They will clean your windows in one quick and easy step. Just wipe the window with the cloth. They are great when you need a fast clean up. The disadvantage is they tend to be more expensive than the other store bought products.
There are several choices in the tools you can use to wipe your windows clean after applying cleaning solution. Most people use paper towels to wipe the window clean. This will work but there are some disadvantages. Cost is one disadvantage because you can use many paper towels to clean all your windows. This is especially true for tough problems like fingerprints and nose prints from pets. Also the fibers can stick to your window leaving you with a fuzzy or streaky window.
Newspaper is a great alternative to paper towels. It is cost effective because you are recycling newspaper that would be thrown out anyway. The newspaper will not leave streaks or fuzzy residue on your windows. Be sure to use only black and white newspaper, the colored paper can leave ink stains on the window.
Another great tool for cleaning windows is a squeegee. You can find these where any cleaning tools and supplies are sold. Just spray the window with solution then run the squeegee over the window in one direction. It will wipe away the solution and dirt and leave a clean dry window without any wiping. This method is less labor intensive especially for very large windows. Also you do not have a pile of paper towels or newspaper to dispose of when you are done. The squeegees also come in different sizes to you can clean large and small windows without a problem. The disadvantage is any tough or built up stains can be harder to remove with a squeegee. These stains may require going back and wiping with the paper towel or newspaper.
You do not have to choose only one method to clean all your windows. A combination of the supplies and tools described above can be used to fit your needs. Bathroom and kitchen windows may need more wiping with paper towels or newspaper to remove tough dirt, while one swipe with a squeegee is all that is required for windows that are not exposed to fingerprints or pets. The prepackaged wipes can work well when all you want is a quick and easy clean up. Cleaning windows becomes less of a chore when you pick the right methods to suit your preferences and budget.
13.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/cleanofficesil_syil.htm
How to clean office silk plants
Silk plants are an attractive office accessory, but only if they are kept clean and dust-free. Silk plant maintenance is simple since they do not need the sun, water and fertilizers real plants require, but cleaning must be done regularly to keep the plants crisp and pretty.
Basic dusting is the most important part of silk plant care. Use either a feather duster or a lamb’s wool duster to brush the loose dust and dirt off of your plant’s stems and leaves on a regular basis. Periodically, use a soft brush attachment with your vacuum to collect heavier deposits of dirt or cobwebs.
Once or twice a year, your plants may require heavier cleaning to maintain their beauty. Before you clean them, you should still remove the dust first so the application of water or cleaner will not turn the layer of dust to mud.
Remember that each silk plant is unique since different types of silk and dyes may be used, and you should test your cleaning solutions on each plant in a hidden area. Always check the care label on your plants since some silks should not ever get wet.
Several manufacturers sell silk plant cleaning sprays, and these generally do a good job when carefully applied to your plant. However, several less expensive cleaning methods work just as well. The first thing to try is plain tap water. Isolate one leaf or petal and run tap water over it gently. Shake it out. If the surface looks glossy and clean, you should be able to use water to clean the whole plant.
Place the plant in a sink, outdoors or on any water-friendly surface. Gently spray water from a faucet or pour water from a large cup, washing each part of the plant without saturating it. Make sure whatever the plant is resting in is water resistant as well. Spanish moss will dry if it is washed along with the plant, but crumpled paper should be removed before you clean the plant. Once you are done washing the plant, shake it gently to remove any excess water and fluff and arrange the leaves. Set it in a sunny spot to dry more quickly. When it is completely dry, it should be as good as new.
If you do not have a place you can pour water over the plant, spray water gently on the leaves and wipe them dry with a soft towel or cloth.
For extremely dirty plants or plants with stains, add either a small amount of dishwashing liquid or white vinegar to your water solution. Spray the plant with this solution, then gently wipe with a soft cloth. Follow up with a spray of clean rinse water. Soap residue will attract dust and dirt quickly, so make sure the plant is well-rinsed. For a stain or problem area, apply the dishwashing or vinegar solution with a soft toothbrush, gently agitating the spot. Stronger cleaners are likely to damage the silk, so simply spend more time with the gentle cleansers on stubborn stains
14.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/ideascleaningm_syim.htm
Ideas for cleaning marble floors tile and counter tops
The beauty of a marble floor, imported tile and marble countertop is unsurpassed by anything. Ancients used marble in building temples and castles. Modern millionaires lined their hallways with it. Marble is a stone which, throughout the ages, has been noted not only for its strength and durability, but also for its beauty and character. Nothing invokes exclamations of appreciation like marble or granite, unless of course, it is not maintained, in which case you may find yourself with nothing but a heavy burden.
The main thing to understand about marble is that it, like granite, is a natural substance, which is porous.
Porous materials act like a sponge, soaking up any liquid poured on it. This is why one of the first things to do when selecting marble or granite as a building material is to ask if it will be sealed before installation. It is well worth the additional cost, if any, to protect your surface. Even though you may think marble is indestructible, it is not immune to stains and chips.
When cleaning a marble surface, first use either a soft bristle broom or a cleaning cloth based mop to remove any loose dirt or dust from the surface. Never use lemon, vinegar, or other acids, regardless of their strength. These can damage your surface irreparably. This includes orange or lemon-based soaps. Plain mild dish detergent is best-and rinses easiest. Ammonia and ammonia based products, while doing a good job at getting your marble clean, can dull the surface over time. Pay special attention to spills, especially oil-based spills, such as olive oil on a countertop. Try and clean these immediately with mild soap and water.
After the surface has been cleaned of all loose dust and dirt, use a soft, lint free cloth to wipe any prominent spots, taking extra care with oil-based spills. Use a sponge mop for floors. Use a large sponge or squeegee for countertops and tile. Rinse often. Clean surfaces with soap and water, making sure to rinse thoroughly. Do not leave soap residue on surface, as it will dry and cloud the luster of the surface.
Do not become alarmed if dark wet spots appear on the floor or countertop. As we mentioned earlier, marble is porous, and this is common, especially in surfaces which have not been professionally sealed. The spots will dry, usually in twenty minutes to an hour.
After your surface has been thoroughly cleaned and rinsed of any soap residue, you may want to use a commercial product to shine your surface. These products are easily available in most hardware stores. Check the label to make certain that the cleaner is for your type of surface, and ask the store clerk for assistance. Remember, it is preferable to ask a question than to damage your surface. Always use a clean cotton cloth to shine your surface, and remember, oil spills should always be cleaned immediately.
With care, marble is one of the most beautiful ways to complement your home. Keep it clean, and the compliments will keep coming
15.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/seasoningcaring_sykr.htm
The benefits of cast iron cookware are many. Unlike nonstick or aluminum cookware, cast iron will last forever when properly cared for. It provides even heat distribution, and it is oven and broiler safe. Cast iron can even be used on an outdoor grill for high temperature deep fat frying.
Cast iron cookware is available in many sizes and shapes; there are skillets of every size, stockpots, saucepans, Dutch ovens, and molds for making corn bread sticks.
Although cast iron is sturdy, it does require special care. A brand new cast iron skillet or other cookware item must be prepared and properly “seasoned” before using it for the first time. This is a very important process that must be done before using your new cookware. Begin by washing the item to be seasoned in hot soapy water. Dry it thoroughly with paper towels. Next coat the entire cast iron item with a thin glaze of vegetable shortening. Place the item on a sheet of aluminum foil in a 350-degree oven for approximately one hour. Seasoning new cast iron cookware provides a tough nonstick surface. This surface not only keeps foods from sticking, it helps protect the item from moisture that can cause rust.
When frying food in a cast iron skillet, always heat the oil first to prevent food from sticking. Doing so will also help prevent foods from absorbing too much oil during preparation. To check if cooking oil is hot enough for frying foods, add a drop or two of water. If the water sizzles and evaporates on contact, it is ready for use.
Do not prepare acidic foods such as tomato-based sauces in cast iron cookware. The naturally occurring acid will remove the nonstick surface.
If the nonstick surface of your cast iron cookware is removed, season the item using the same method you did when it was new. A cast iron item that is well seasoned will have a smooth black finish. The longer it has been used, the darker it will become. If your cookware is well cared for it will become more and more nonstick as you use it.
Clean your cast iron cookware by wiping off excess food and oils using paper towels. Wash them using plain hot water and a dishrag. Stuck on foods can be gently removed using a scratch pad and hot water. Never use soap to clean cast iron cookware. It will damage the nonstick surface, and it will absorb the soap and cause the foods you cook to taste like soap.
Thoroughly dry cast iron cookware after washing it. Even minute amounts of moisture will cause it to rust. Make sure your cookware is completely dry by setting it on a hot burner for 5 minutes or until all traces of water have evaporated.
Before storing cast iron skillets, apply a thin layer of shortening to the inside surface. Cover the interior of each skillet with a paper towel, and stack them accordingly. Never store cast iron cookware with lids on. They require air in order to stay free of moisture and rust.
Rusty cast iron skillets can be salvaged. Begin by scrubbing them with fine-grade steel wool. Wash and rinse the item, and dry it completely. Apply an even coating of shortening to the entire item, and season it as instructed previously. If necessary, repeat this process.
Cast iron skillets are great for broiling foods such as chicken, steaks, fish, and other meats. They are also great for melting cheese on omelets, and for browning the tops of deep-dish pizzas. Cornbread is excellent when baked in a cast iron skillet. The edges are crisp, while the inside is moist and tender.
You’ll find that you love your cast iron kitchen items. Fried foods are crispier and full of flavor. You’ll also love saving money. You’ll never again have to spend money to replace worn out nonstick cookware.
16.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/householdmainte_szrj.htm
How to take care for granite counter top
So you’ve agonized over the decision to go with natural stone or solid surface and finally decided on granite for its variations and natural beauty. You’ve pondered whether to use a light or dark color, subtle variations or more noticeable ones. The granite counter tops are finally cut and installed and they are everything you hope they would be. They enhance your kitchen, making it the preparation, dining and entertaining room of your dreams. So how do you care for your new counter top?
A granite counter top is a significant investment in your home, so it is only right that you should protect and care for it in the proper manner. Granite is a beautiful stone that will last for a very long time, perhaps even a lifetime, if taken care of effectively.
After the granite counter tops are installed in your kitchen, it is very important to do several things. The first thing is to clean the granite thoroughly with a neutral ph cleanser made for stone. Your cabinet installer or contractor should be able to recommend a good brand of stone cleanser; if not, go to your local Home Depot or other home center, and they can recommend one to purchase for your granite counter tops.
When you have cleaned the installation dust and debris from your new counter tops, the next step is the most important to do before using your new counter tops. You must seal the granite. A sealer can be recommended by your contractor or picked up at the same place you get your cleanser. Sealing provides a protective barrier against surface staining and etching. Another advantage of the sealant is that it enhances your color and adds to the shine and beauty of your new counter tops. Sealing should be done at least every six months, although your contractor may suggest doing it more or less often. It is a good idea to make sure that you seal the areas in which you use a lot of water, such as by the sink, and areas where there is a lot of grease, such as by the stove, more often. The sealant is very durable, but you don’t want to take chances with natural granite counter tops that probably cost you a significant amount of money.
Another tip about granite counter top care is to clean up spills right away. You do not want to let spills sit on the granite and perhaps leave a stain. It is fairly unlikely that a stain will occur if you are using your sealer often enough, but it is still a good idea to wipe up any food or grease stains immediately.
All in all, granite counter tops are one of the easiest counter top surfaces to take care of. They only need cleaning and the occasional sealing to make them beautiful and to make them last. So take care of your counter tops and they will be an investment you are proud to have in your home and a major selling point if you ever decide to move.
17.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/housecleaningt_szta.htm
30 spots to clean every 5 years
Everybody has spots in their home that just never seem to get clean. They’re not a high enough priority to clean regularly, so they just become neglected and then forgotten. And then they get so gross and disgusting you don’t want to think about cleaning them.
The solution to this quandary is to remember them often enough that they don’t get out of control. Many of these spots can go for several years without much attention. So here they are: 30 spots to clean every five years.
1. Box springs. You probably never think about your box springs, but they can get dusty and collect things that have been thrown into the air from the vacuum cleaner. Take the top mattress off and using a brush attachment, vacuum the top, sides, and underside of your box spring. You just might sleep a little better knowing it’s clean.
2. Refrigerator coils. Your refrigerator will run more efficiently if its working parts are not quite so dusty. Pull the refrigerator out from the wall and then, using your brush attachment again, vacuum the dust from every crevice you can find. Detach the vent from the front and vacuum there, too.
3. Floor beneath refrigerator. While you have the refrigerator pulled out, vacuum the floor underneath it and collect all the magnets that have fallen under there. Then wash and dry the floor before you push it back to the wall.
4. Floor vents. Floor vents collect a lot of dust. Pull them up from the floor and wash them in warm, soapy water. Make sure you dry them thoroughly before putting them back.
5. Window screens. Take the window screens out of the window frames and hose them down on a sunny day. Make sure you wipe the window frames before you put them back.
6. Down spouts and rain gutters. This job should probably be done seasonally. Brush all the leaves and gunk out of the gutters and flush the down spouts. You could end up with a leak somewhere in the house if these get too stopped up.
7. Clothes dryer. Take the lint screen out and vacuum the area beneath (or behind) it. Give the entire outside of the dryer a good scrub. Also, disconnect the tube that leads from the dryer to outside and give that a good vacuum, too.
8. Washing machine. Minerals from your water can build up in a washing machine just like they do on your bathroom fixtures. Use a vinegar solution to wipe down the inside of the washing machine, and don’t forget the receptacles that hold the detergent at the beginning of the load.
9. Laundry room floor. Move your washer and dryer and thoroughly clean the floor underneath.
10. Attic. Take a broom up with you and get rid of cobwebs and dust. Throw out anything you have stored up there that really should go.
11. Books. Books should be cleaned from time to time. The dust can make the paper deteriorate faster, and they collect a musty smell. Using your ever-handy vacuum attachment, vacuum the tops and sides of the books.
12. Polish/wax bookshelves. While you have the books off, give your bookshelves some TLC. Polish or wax the wood and give the shelves a little breather (and time to thoroughly dry) before replacing the books.
13. Range. Hopefully, you’re cleaning your stove and oven more than every five years. But pull that thing out from the wall and give the back and underside a good scrub.
14. Floor beneath the range. Vacuum and wash and dry the floor before replacing the range.
15. Air ducts. You’ll probably need to call in a professional for this job. Get someone to clean all the air ducts in your house, especially if you have allergies.
16. Furnace. A routine furnace inspection can save you a lot on your heating bill. While the furnace technician is making sure everything is okay, he’ll clean up the furnace as well.
17. Chimney. If you use the fireplace often, you’ll have to do this job more often than every five years to avoid creosote fires. If you use it only occasionally, though, you can go for much longer.
18. Linen closet. Take everything out of the linen closet, throw out unused linens, and give those shelves a good scrub. Make sure the shelves are dry before you put the linens back.
19. Fence. Check all of the joints of your fences. If there has been settling in the posts, correct any strange angles. If your fence is stained or painted, re-stain and re-paint as needed.
20. Deck. Check deck for splintering wood or nails that stick out. Send as necessary. Pressure washes the wood and then re-stains.
21. Broom. Brooms do an awful lot of dirty work. Once in a while, wash your brooms with soap and water to keep things under control.
22. Silver. Pull out the silver and give it a good polish. If you use it regularly, silver won’t need as much maintenance.
23. Entertainment center. All those cords back there get pretty dusty. Pull everything out from the wall, vacuum up the dust, wash the cords (after you’ve unplugged them), wash the baseboards, and arrange the cords so they’re not a tangled mess. Then push the unit back to the wall.
24. Fire extinguisher. Check your fire extinguisher to make sure it works and replace it if it doesn’t.
25. Ceilings. Lay down drop cloths as if you were going to paint. Mix a mild detergent with water in a bucket and have another bucket filled with water close by. Wash a couple square yards at a time and then rinse that area before moving on. If your paint can’t tolerate such treatment, just paint the ceiling.
26. Walls. Use the same technique for washing walls as you did for the ceilings.
27. Wallpaper. Vacuum wallpaper. If it’s really dirty, test an inconspicuous place before you wash with soap and water as water can make the wallpaper peel off in some cases.
28. Curtain rods. Take down the curtains during one of their regular cleanings and then wash the rods.
29. Shower curtain. If it’s a vinyl curtain, wash with a cleaner that kills mold and mildew, such as bleach. Most cloth curtains can be washed in the washing machine.
30. Toilet brushes. If you’ve had your toilet brush for five years, yuck, just throw it away and get a new one
18.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/getridfleasca_szuk.htm
How to get rid of fleas in carpet
If you have a dog or cat, chances are that you will have a flea problem at some point. Because the little critters multiply so rapidly, getting rid of them can be extremely difficult. Luckily, there are steps you can take to minimize your misery. Read on to find out how to free your carpets of fleas…for good.
The single most effective way to battle fleas in your home is to vacuum frequently, including all of the carpet (that includes under the furniture), upholstered furniture and long curtains or drapes. In the early stages of infestation, you should vacuum almost constantly. (This means every day!) Once the problem is under control, once or twice a week should be enough.
There are a few things you can do to maximize your vacuuming time. First of all, it helps to place a flea collar in the vacuum bag before you begin. Additionally, you should spend extra time working over areas in which your pet spends a lot of time. Finally, throw away the vacuum bag every time you vacuum. This may seem extreme, but fleas can easily escape from the bag. Seal it carefully and dispose of it somewhere outside of your house.
You should also regularly clean all of your rugs and/or mats. Wash them in warm water, and dry them thoroughly. (Fleas thrive in moist areas.) If your rug requires professional cleaning, you may want to wait until the problem is under control before returning the rug to its place.
There are also a number of products available that will help rid your carpet of fleas. Such products are widely available over the counter, but you can visit your vet for something even more potent. Foggers or misters work by spraying a flea-killing product into the air. Sprays, on the other hand, offer a little more control, and can get those hard-to-reach places (under the couch, for example). Whatever product you use should contain both pesticide and insect growth regulator. The first takes care of the fleas themselves, while the latter prevents eggs from hatching.
If you aren’t interested in buying specialty products, Borax, an all-purpose cleaning powder, is an effective household remedy. To begin, sprinkle the powder on the carpet. Next, you should brush the powder into the carpet; use a mop or a broom to really work it into the fibers. Wait a day or so before you vacuum. Don’t worry—the powder will not harm your pet.
Of course, treating the carpets is only one aspect of a complete flea control plan. You should also address the fleas in your yard and, most importantly, in your pet. There are a number of products available for dealing with both; consult your vet or someone at your local pet supply store.
Still can’t get your flea problem under control? You may have to turn to a professional. Exterminators are generally very effective, especially when combined with the techniques listed above. Have your exterminator visit regularly if it is within your budget; otherwise, a one-time visit followed by your vigilance should do the trick.
19.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/essentiallau_szwb.htm
10 essential laundry tips for college freshman
For some of us, laundry was something that we never had to do until we went away to college. While living at home, it was easy to let someone else, rather it was a parent, sibling, relative or friend perform those not so popular duties for us. Now that college is a new experience, laundry is generally the last thing that comes to mind. After attending classes all week, most students want to relax on the weekend and have fun with their friends so who has time for laundry right? Well, fitting time into your schedule for laundry is not as hard as it seems. The latter statement also applies to those who dread laundry because they don’t know how to do it. Laundry can be made easy with these ten essential steps.
1. Wash during non-peak hours. This is recommended for students who live in traditional dorms. Usually, a traditional dorm consists of a small laundry facility to accommodate over 200 students. If you wash late at night or during the week as opposed to Sundays or in the midst of the day, it might be easier to get it done quickly.
2. Use off-campus laundry mats if necessary. Although on-campus laundry facilities are cheaper than public laundry mats, sometimes no matter what time of day, all the machines may be in use with other students standing around waiting to wash. This is unlikely, but if it happens, you could wait and wash another time or use a public laundry mat. The advantage to a public laundry mat is that they have larger facilities and clothing seems to dry faster with the large size industrial dryers.
3. Save plenty of quarters throughout the week for washing. It is helpful to already have change available to do laundry because it could be easier to put it off if change is not readily available. In addition, if there is a change machine near the laundry room, don’t rely on it to have change or work effectively.
4. Never leave clothes unattended. Some students may find it easier to place their clothes into the machines and come back later. However, if this method is followed, it is likely that your clothes won’t be there upon your return. Also, unattended clothing can get removed from the machines by other students and placed aside especially if there is a lack of availability.
5. Bring something to do while you wait. Since it is highly recommended not to leave clothes unattended while washing, find something else to do to keep occupied while waiting helps reduce boredom.
6. Wash once a week if possible. Students should try to bring enough clothing with them when going away to college. This way, they don’t have to worry about washing more than once a week just to have something presentable to wear.
7. Be sure to separate colors. This step is essential because if it is not followed, dark colored clothing will bleed and ruin light colored clothing.
8. Remember to change the water temperature. All white clothes should be washed in hot water and you can add bleach if desired. Clothing with color should generally be washed in warm water, however, be sure to read the tag for washing directions because it varies.
9. Don’t overload the dryer. Overloading can result in overspending because clothes simply will not dry quickly if the dryer is too full.
10. For large loads of laundry, get a sizeable duffle bag. A duffle bag is helpful for students who live in traditional dorms, depending on the college; because often the laundry rooms are centrally located that means a lot of walking may take place. If a large bag is handy, it will prevent extra visits to the laundry room to bring clothes that couldn’t be carried in one trip.
These 10 easy steps mentioned are from personal experience and they are not exclusive. Students should try different methods and stick with what works best for them and their current situations.
20.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/homemadedustco_szyf.htm
How to make a home dust collector
One hazard of woodworking is the dust, not to mention the mess! Once the dust is in the air it’s virtually impossible to clear the air, your lungs, your eyes, and even your mouth completely. There are many places that have classified all wood as potentially carcinogenic, meaning that it could possibly cause cancer. In addition to serious health problems wood particles in the air can also cause less serious health issues such as irritated eyes, skin irritation, nausea, and many other illnesses. It is a good idea to know what kind of wood you are working with so you can be sure to take all the appropriate precautions since some woods tend to cause more issues than others. In addition to a dust collector it may be wise to invest in a respirator if you rely on woodworking for a living, or do a lot of sanding.
There are numerous costly fixes for the problem of dust in the air, but many people who are just starting up or who just don’t have the extra funds cannot afford such luxuries and must revert to homemade remedies. There are some more high tech home remedies that will run you a few hundred dollars when all is said and done, although they may not run as effectively as you hope. Even those who can afford more expensive retail dust collectors could benefit from something homemade to help clear the air further. Some may find simple homemade projects remove the dust just as effectively as those that are sold in retail stores, or that they work quite well in conjunction with what they have already purchased.
A simple and quite inexpensive way to make your own dust collector is to take an ordinary box fan found at your local super center, generally for twenty dollars or less, and fit a standard furnace filter to the back of the fan. You can secure the filter to the fan with straps, bungee cords, large rubber bands, or a home made frame assembled from some scrap wood and nails fit to the size of the fan and filter.
Simply placing this dust collector behind your work piece or workstation will keep much of the dust from getting in the air before it is ever airborne, obviously eliminating a lot of the problem. The dust will simply collect on the filter and this can be dumped into a bag and tossed out as needed. Placing more than one dust collector in your environment will help collect even more of the very fine dust that is most hazardous to your health, and subsequently clean the air further. This set-up is very effective and will help remove much of the dust from the air, but again, if you intend to be in the dust all day every day or you do a lot of sanding it is advisable to invest in a respirator and something that will take even the smallest fragments of wood out of the air, as those are the ones that carry the most risk to your health. This simple, yet cost effective dust collector should help take the mess out of your woodworking experience! Enjoy and breathe easier!

1.Source: http://cleaning.lifetips.com/cat/41/furniture-cleaning/index.html

How to Remove White Spots from Furniture

If you have white spots on your wooden furniture, you should work hard to remove the white, cloudy film or your wood can be permanently damaged.

*Rub the surface of the wood with a soft cloth that has been dipped in one half cup of ammonia and water.

*Wipe the furniture dry immediately and polish.

*If the white spots are still visible, use 3/0 steel wool and olive oil and rub lightly with the grain of the wood, then wax.

*For very deep spots, rub cigarette ashes into the wood.

*If the white spots still remain, you will have to strip off the old finish.

2.Source: http://cleaning.lifetips.com/cat/41/furniture-cleaning/index.html

Odor Removal from Wood Furniture

Some ways to remove odors from wood furniture are: filling the drawers with ground coffee and leaving it over night, using baking soda and leaving it in for several days, using cat litter and leaving it in for several days or placing the item outside in a shady spot on a breezy day.

Recipe for homemade wood furniture cleaner: In a pump spray bottle, place 1 teaspoon of light olive oil and half a cup of white vinegar. Shake well. This is as effective as any store bought product, yet is far more economical.

3.Source: http://cleaning.lifetips.com/cat/41/furniture-cleaning/index.html

Water Ring Removal from Wood Furniture

If possible, remove water rings from wood furniture while they’re fresh by rubbing with a soft cloth. If water rings are set, you can apply an oil-based furniture polish. There are several other techniques you can try. You can apply mayonnaise liberally over the water ring and leave overnight, then wipe off with a soft dry cloth the next day. You can also try applying a small amount of non-gel toothpaste and baking soda to a damp cloth, then rub the stain lightly. Another technique is to apply a paste of cooking oil and salt, wait 15 minutes, then wipe off and polish as usual.

4.Source: http://cleaning.lifetips.com/cat/41/furniture-cleaning/index.html

Paint Stain Removal from Leather Upholstery

To remove paint from leather furniture, try wiping the area with rubbing alcohol or turpentine. Try both of these in a non-visible area on the leather first, to ensure that they will not remove the dyes or harm the leather. You can also try cleaning the area with sad